Argentina: moving, divinely acute and desperately real. People are so different here, and while you can photograph landscapes and architecture of grandeur; it’s the Argentinians that draw you in. Seeming to have positioned themselves in relation to the ‘elixir of life’, there is an acute awareness of the simplicity thereof as well as its’ importance; pure enjoyment.
It’s been said of Argentina: ‘Feel whatyou can See’, which is why it would be appropriate to begin with the tango show at the prestigious Esquina Carlos Gardel in Buenos Aires; this on the night of our arrival. Watching with big eyes, the only term I could coin was a ‘mathematical sex dance’. The leader was precise and quick; but possessed a heightened awareness of the needs and sensuality of the partner in his arms. Few things have captivated my attention quite like this. A good start.
Moving away from the Buenos night life, the primary reason for this trip though was to explore Patagonia. So it was, that we were woken up at 4am the next day to board the first of three flights to Puerto Madryn, Chubut.
To explain, ‘Patagonia is a region in the (southernmost) portion of South America…(with) the Andes mountains to the west and south, and a plateaux and low plains to the east’. Of the five provinces of Patagonia, we were to visit three: Tierra del Fuego, Santa Cruz and Chubut.
Landing at Trelew airport, the surrounding steppe resembled Three Sisters, Karoo. Put bluntly, there was nothing. As the day unfolded however, the apparently barren surroundings were to expose rivers, quaint cottages and subtle signs of life.
Activity one, day one; an excursion to the penguin colony of Punta Tomba. One- hundred and ten kilometers south of Trelew, we arrived at a three kilometer wide peninsula dotted with an average 200 000 Magellanic penguin pairs.
Between September and April, penguins waddle here in order to lay and incubate their eggs (the latter is taken in turns). Whilst one partner stays home, the other goes feeding for a week; after which they rotate shifts. Should partner be late in home-coming however, the result is apparently a cranky and disillusioned penguin, the ones we were warned to avoid disturbing even further. Nothing like an abandoned lover.
Returning, we were then treated to a cruise down the ChebutRiverValley, the point being to spot wildlife and follow the freedom of the current. Outcome: acquainting ourselves with ore-man Juani; whom Angela (one of the group members) took a desperate liking to, and who charmed her despite ‘I no speak English’, and then proceeded to babble on about resident beavers. Quick intermission here to mention that these beavers were actually quite impressive, most especially their home-building techniques. With the front-door being underwater, the remainder of their lodges are actually aerated dug-outs just below the surface of the ground. A genius land-aquatic mammal.
Driving from one animal sanctuary to another, we soon became familiar with the landscape of Chubut, as well as the concept of ‘Estancias‘, Spanish for ranch. Now for the clinch. ‘The Estancia’s ranch worker, the gaucho, is of similar importance to national folklore and identity to the cowboy in North America’. Hold the phone. Capturing our imagination and especially Angela’s fantasy, the concept of an unattached gaucho soon became the topic of at least eight conversations a day.
Besides the historical culture of the Estancias, was the significance of the WelshHeritageof Chubut. Especially noticeableinGaiman; Dolavon too was a town brimmingwith charm, simplicity and quaint character.
During the second half of the nineteenth century, Patagonia was colonised, by amongst others, the Welsh. What encouraged this foreign migration had been chiefly the result of push and pull factor/s. The Argentinian government had wanted to establish a presence in Patagonia, whilst the Welsh sought to develop a ‘purely Welsh settlement overseas (…) a refuge from cultural and economic oppression in Wales’.
Soon, Patagonia was soon introduced to Gaellic tea and cakes of every sort. Black home-made cake, cream pudding, nut cake, apple-pie, chocolate and cream cake, fruit-pies, scones; all of which you can still taste today at the local cafe..
Next day, this being Tuesday the 23rd November, we were off to the Peninsula Valdes.
Extending to the East of Argentina and into the Atlantic Ocean, the Peninsula could have been an island but for a tiny attachment to the mainland. Declared a world Heritage site in 1999, she boasts southern right whales, penguins, dolphins, elephant seals, sea lions, and quite obviously, birds. Perusing the entirety of the peninsula, we had the privilege of spotting elephant seals, guanacos (almost a lama equivalent), a gray fox (complete with a litter of cubs), whales and sea lions. This protected area of Patagonia felt like the ‘source’ of whale and penguin life: where National Geographic shoot documentaries, and orcas leap onto the beach in order to catch their prey.
On the topic of whale watching, this happens at a sizable enclave called GolfoNuevo, which is where we boarded the Zodiak and launched from PeurtoPiramides into the ocean. Attaching ourselves to a southern right mother and calf, we followed as they made their way around the gulf. Note, the best viewing happens between the months of June and December.
On closer observation, it became exciting as we began noticing the pattern of movement, and the way the pair swam almost simultaneously. After four minutes of surface play, the whales would then ‘dive’ for an average of ten minuets. The dive is always preempted by the tail exhibit. So when you see tail, you no longer see whale…until you spot her about thirty meters away again.
Also of interest in this particular region is the bird life, and especially the pesky albatross. Needing to feed and having too little to eat, the albatross in this area have taken to eating whale, only ever observed in this part of the world. Hovering about five meters above the water, the albatross will spot the whales back, and dive quickly for a nibble. While fascinating to watch, they have become a primary concern to local conservationists, who have considered everything from shooting to poisoning them.
From southern right whales, onto the orcas. Launching themselves onto the beach in PortoNorde, (the northern-most point of PortoValdes) orcas will catch baby elephant seals and then hop backwards into the sea. Before lunch they will form a circle, tossing the prey to one-another. In order to teach their young this practice, orcas will sometimes perform this ritual and then simply take the elephant seal back to shore. If you’ve seen the animation ‘Surfs Up’, you’ll see this in action. Better idea, see it yourself.
Having been in Puerto Madryn since Monday, Wednesday came, and it was time to leave again. So it was that we boarded the two hour ten minute flight to Ushuaia, compliments of Aerolineas Argentina, the nation’s solitary local airline.
Landing in Ushuaia, we were taken straight to our hotel, Las Hayas. To put this destination into perspective: picture Switzerland, and the Switzerland of your imagination is probably Ushuaia. Glittering lights in the dusk, snowy mountains, gable- roofed homes, this is where we had landed.
On the night of our arrival, we were hosted to a gourmet three-course meal at our supremely luxurious hotel, situated at the end of a winding mountain road. Main course; beef. As famous as the Argentinian Tango and Mendoza Wines, is its meat. The average Argentinian will consume around 70kg’s of beef and lamb a year.
Similar to the story of the Welsh occupation of the Chubut province, the government’s idea with regards to Ushuaia was to ‘colonise it with convicts’; who first arrived on board the 1 de Mayo Ship in the early 1900’s.
‘Outside the jail, convicts were used for building streets, bridges, and buildings’. So, thanks to the convicted Guiseppes and Peppos of Buenos Aires, a railway was built in 1910, now known as the Southernmost railway in the world; a wild tourist attraction.
Inmates would catch this very train some hundred years ago to ride the seven kilometers into the forest in order to collect wood; this for basic survival. Although spring in Argentina, Ushuaia is situated about 1600km from Antartica; and therefore somewhat icy is an understatement.
Ushuaia was so exciting though, the activities opulent and almost fantastical. If you have a bucket list, be sure to scribble: train trip at the end of the world and helicopter ride over the mountains of Tierra del Fuego, land of fire.
The Helicopter Ride; a winner and a first. As the blades started to turn, the chopper emitted a dangerously loud noise, which is why I think the pilot issued us with ear-muffs. ‘Muffs’ being a pansy word given the apparent ‘hardcoreness’ of the situation. A little speaker in-front of our mouths allowed us to communicate our excitement, and we could even hear transmission-messages from the other chopper, which didn’t help thanks to it being of the Spanish persuasion.
Our itinerary was impressive. Straight from the helly to horse-riding, with a four by four adventure through mud trails and winding forest tracks, which led us on a path adjacent the Escondido and Fagnano Lakes. Stopping on the shores, we enjoyed cups of coffee and alfajores which is a dulce de leche; a milk based caramel sauce ensconced by soft biscuits, an Argentinian favourite.
Located in a bay, Ushuaia is ‘bound in the north by the Martial Mountain range and on the south by the Beagle Channel’, which separates the Chilean mountains from that of the Argentinian. Most interesting about this Channel is that it separates, or rather connects, the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. In addition to this, the Beagle is ‘located at the active seismotectonic setting of the Fuegian Andes (Scotia Plate Domain)’, a tectonic valley five kilometers in width.
Onto the city itself now, and its quirky intricacies. When in Ushuaia, be sure to get your passport stamped. It will read: ‘Ushuaia – Southernmost City in the World’. I got three.
Ushuaia is also renowned for her free-standing houses, as in they could be attached to a thousand balloons and simply float away, as observed in the animation Up. The story behind this is that residents of Ushuaia could never quite claim a piece of land and build, as land was government owned. Fifteen years ago (when global warming wasn’t on CNN and chappies sold for half a cent), residents would slide their homes down the iced roads. Morning traffic bulletin would read: ‘house collides with car’. What a funky, weird part of the world: where punks meet in the street, and lovers whisper nothing of consequence; observed closely by statues of the Virgin Mary.
Loving it, but now on to El Calafate; famous for her glaciers.
From the airport, we were whisked straight to a three-course gourmet dinner at the Xelena Deluxe, and from there to our hotel, Posada Los Alamos. Day one in El Calafate we enjoyed a four by four excursion which took us to a beautiful lookout point, this for a quick photo-op. The afternoon was then spent purchasing Cuban designer pants and that evening, dinner and a show at Kau Yatun, one of the local Estancias.
This latter experience is a must. Swept into the experience of Argentinian farm life, we spent the better half of two hours feeding orphaned calves, watching a gaucho sheering sheep, and Lassy exhibiting her polished sheep-herding skills. Fascinating to watch, the dog would maneuver the flock left or right depending on the faintest whistle of the gaucho. Later, whilst sitting around an outside fire tasting the bitter Mate, our host then explained the origins of the farm, its surrounding culture and finally, how his family had come to possess the land. Later that evening, dinner was served. A hot plate full of assorted meat delicacies and vegetables from the farm’s organic garden, the conversation was loud and so animated. I blame Mendoza wine. During dessert, three young entertainers then took the night to another level, with their choreography resembling a tap dance, sang and beat on two bongos, the sound harmonised as they imitated a famous gaucho pass-time.
Granny at table 25 added to the festivities when she decided to shake a leg. So with handkerchief in one hand and other hand on her hip; she launched into a sort of jingo, made even more charming when her ancient husband joined in. The two bounced together attempting, without much success, a joint movement. Tears of laughter were streaming, it was so cute. ‘Trip Advisor’, who market themselves as publishing the world’s most trusted travel advice, rave about Kau Yatun. So do I.
The next day, this being the 30th of November, I was then separated from the group and sent mini-trekking on the glaciers. Starting early, it was a two hour drive from El Calafate to the Perito Moreno National Park/Los Glaciers National Park. From there we hopped onto a ferry, and were transported across the Lago Argentino to the glacier itself, where we were met by an English-speaking guide.
After a quick explanation about the proceedings and the importance of wearing gloves, it was a ten minute walk through the forest to the edge of the glacier, which is where we had crampons fitted onto our shoes. Fifteen minuets later, and we were on the ice.
To explain, the glaciers are magnanimous; about 75 meters above the surface of the water, and five kilometers wide. One of three non-retreating glaciers in Patagonia, this particular one waxes and wanes every year, obviously depending on the season. Since 1971, it has remained unchanged in size. What ice is lost in summer, is regained in winter. Observing these ice-mountains, the most thrilling experience was watching monstrous pieces drop from the glacier into the sea, creating a mini-tidal wave, with the cracking and roaring sound of thunder.
Almost towards the end of our trek, we turned a corner and there on the ice, against a backdrop of pure white, was a rudimentary wooden table topped with tumblers, a bottle of whiskey and a bowl full of chocolates. If you’re the well-traveled individual whose acquired the ‘global T-shirt’ and is actually considering a cruise to the Antarctic, consider this instead.
We experienced the summer months, but winter attracts a whole host of other activities in Patagonia, some of these include dog-sledding, skiing etc. Even the Osbournes thought Ushuaia was a good idea this year, not to mention Nelson Mandela, who visited Patagonia during his last honeymoon.
The ski season in Ushuaia lasts between the months of June to late September. Storms generally approach from the South-west, dropping between 10 and15cm of light, dry snow over a duration of two to three days. After a day of fun, you can then make your way down to the RamosGeneralesin town to enjoy hot chocolate and a freshly baked croissant.
Returning to the itinerary however, our trip was finally at an end (insert: much weeping), and so we made our way back to Buenos Aires. Our final day was spent shopping for Pumas, visiting colourful La Boca and on a sombre note, paying tribute at the cemetery of Eva Peron..
I’ve missed Argentina. Spanish is up there on the languages of romance. To the foreign ear, ‘its your turn to clean the toilet’, might as well be ‘dine with me tonight, you marvel of beauty’. People seem free to explore their hearts’ desires, and taste the delicacies of life (purchasable from the ornate deli down the road). It’s a land of acceptance, where difference colour, creed and culture is embraced and loved as opposed to bled for money.
‘To see’ is but one experience of a country, ‘to feel it’ another.