Hidden between two natural ravines, there is an estate on which a Manor ‘to be envied’ was built. Quote: Cape Argus December 1929. And that reporter did not lie.Not just envied though, I would say ‘to be coveted’.
Facing the Camps Bay Atlantic, the sound of the waves is soothing on the ears as I crossed over the swinging and historic forest foot-bridge from our Superior Room: 12 to the main Earl’s Dyke Manor.
Brief mention though should be made of the fact that the estate is divided into three ‘areas’: the elegant Earl’s Dyke Manor, the (more contemporary) Deck House and The Villa. Slightly removed from this main hub of activity the Villa, and more importantly our Room 12, lent itself to much time spent on my arrival: as I soaked up not only the bubbles in my spa- bath but so too the space, as well as the Travel Channel on a wide-screened TV. Luxury not to be scorned at!
Outside, fairy lights led the way from my room to the footbridge (one of the few remaining in South Africa), the side of Table Mountain silhouetted in twilight and peace. Dressed for dinner, I had been told that award-winning chef Robyn Capendale was preparing a ‘five-course meal’, and that she was ‘very excited about it’. This was a sing-song to my ears, and the anticipation was worth every mouthful. The set-course was as follows:
Amuse: Gnocchi served with parmesan foam, charred mushrooms and crispy pancetta
Salad: Baby organic cos lettuce, roasted petit beetroots, homemade biltong and Danish feta salad with a red wine reduction
Soup: Butternut spuma served with butternut fritters dressed with sage beurre noir
Main: Fillet of chalmar beef (her signature dish) served with pomme anna, rocket sauce and cumin infused beetroot
Dessert: Gluwien poached pears served with homemade vanilla seed ice cream, chocolate torte and praline sand
Savouring every flavour, Ben (one of the five hotel dogs) placed his nose into my lap, and combined with the sound of the shoreline breaking just a few meters away and the pianist keying some favorites…the intimacy of the moment translated itself into HOME. Comfortable, loved: yet uncompromising in luxurious Taste and Detail. The latter (attention to detail) not only in the food, but in the choice of candle-sticks, books in the library and the simple way in which every herb and most of the vegetables were home-grown: emphasis on the ‘home’.
Dining slowly through the meal, I couldn’t imagine much to have altered since those early 1930’s. Apart from possibly a rotation of dogs (and visitors) streaming through heavy wooden doors: candles, music and the constant nature of the Sea all made this Manor Timeless, removing you almost entirely from the demands and pressures of Life outside the Estate, therefore rendering it as the ideal Sanctuary for the Soul (incomplete though without a description of the Garden and Spa).
At dawn then, I followed a path which led from the Manor towards the ocean-side, as Bella and Wanda ran ahead of me, turning every few minutes to check that I was still in sight. As I progressed, the foliage appeared to close-in, making the path an almost secretive one. On the left, an olive tree fought for space and on the right, an orchid started beaming orange in the early light.
As butterflies and dogs went before me, a secluded bench further to my left suggested a potentially Romantic moment (to those inclined) but I charged forth, delighted when the path finally opened its (proverbial) doors to an open space. In all of Cape Town, I had never imagined such a treasure of plant-variety.
But again the path gave two options, so I took the right…which led to a ‘mountain pool’. As water (provided by a run off from the Glen Forest) trickled from the mouth of a gargoyle, the beauty I found lay in the Garden’s imperfection. It could not have been more captivating in both its secrecy, and its ultimate display of Natural Art.
So following a fluffy white Bella back up the path, I met my sister at the breakfast table on the ‘Earls Dyke Veranda’ where we enjoyed a buffet of home-made pastries, fresh fruit and to sip: fresh orange juice…which they hand squeeze daily. For the hot-option we both requested bacon and eggs (with a complimentary ‘porky’). Sunny-side up, this was the “Puppy Wanda”.
But glancing over the Atlantic, I was adamant to return (if not for the night, then certainly for a meal). In comparison to more common outlets, the exclusivity of both scenery and atmosphere made this location again: an ‘enviable’ one. So upon query, I learnt that Camps Bay Retreat’s Restaurant is indeed open to the public, but only after October. Why: because the kitchen is currently in ‘hibernation’, gearing up for summer and “peak season”. They’re infusing their own lemoncello, preserving their own olives in blueberry dressing, curing their own biltong, perfecting recipes and experimenting with new ideas.
Cappuccino completed; it was then on to our scheduled Spa session for an hour’s full- body massage (with the detox aromatherapy oil as a choice of treatment). To war against the cold, an open fire crackled and as I lay face-down on the massage table, a bowl of shells provided aesthetic pleasure, as auditory Zen tunes filtered through the air and lavender made my nose twitch.
As is the case with massages I kept anticipating the end but to my surprise, generous Time and lotion were poured out and spent…leaving me in a state of conscious dreaming, as endorphins painted the Day to come rosy with anticipation. For couples: ask for the Love Actually package and for those who read this and remember come 14th February, it would make a perfect (and most ideal) present for your partner.
Back outside, the sun glistened a Saturday yellow and I realised that although what Time remained could have been dedicated to a Georgette Heyer novel, enjoyed on a deck chair with tea and doggie-shaped sablè biscuits, overlooking the rolling lawn; I also needed to wave a petty goodbye. I had relaxed to the point of satisfaction, emerging radiant and refreshed, and though I had spent less than 24hours on the property, the feeling was that I had left town for a ten day mini-break…an ‘enviable’ encounter.
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